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THE SLIDING 'D' RIG

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THE SLIDING 'D' RIG

THE SLIDING 'D' RIG

The 'D' rig is one of the most famous carp rigs ever devised. Used extensively during the late 80' and early 90's, its use has probably declined in the last few years due to the popularity of the knotless knot. That was until some clever chap devised a way to integrate the sliding 'D' into the knotless knot.

First lets look at the theory behind the 'D' rig. Basically it is called a 'D' rig because a loop of stiff nylon or Amnesia is tied to the back of the hooks shank in a 'D' shape. The 'D' can either be whipped into position with thread and glue as if you were tying a trout fly, or using a variation of the knotless knot.

In the process of tying the 'D' you should thread on a sliding ring. In the pictures that accompany this article we are using an ESP oval rig ring - though any simple stainless rig ring will do the job. The boilie is then tied to this ring, therefore making it free to slide up and down the 'D'. The idea is to give the bait a natural kind of movement, so that in the water it behaves in a similar fashion to a free offering.

When the rig is taken into the carpís mouth, I've heard it said that the carp can eject the boilie (which slides down the 'D') whilst leaving the rig in a place to find a hold. I am not so sure about this myself as I think the carp is more likely to eject the hook and retain the bait in it's mouth; not realising that the food is attached to the hook.

In reality all that matters is that the rig works, end of story. No one really knows what goes on inside a carps mouth as it takes in a hook bait and then tries to eject it. All you do need to realize is that this presentation is very good and works a treat, especially when used with a pop-up. Top names that have used this rig in the past include Rod Hutchison and Terry Hearn. They can't all be wrong can they?

You'll notice that there are two sections to the hook length, making it a 'combi link'. These are ties together using a loop and another sliding ring. This technique should only be employed with a buoyant, popped-up boilie; as the effect gained will not be so pronounced on a bottom bait.

The idea once again is to give the hook bait movement and flexibility underwater. On a hard lake bed, the fact that the hook bait is connected to a couple of inches of stiff link and a loop mean it can waft around naturally as the carp feeds nearby. †††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††††

There are quite a few hook link materials on the market that you can use for this rig. If you wish you could make the section of hook link between the bait and the loop supple - a braid for instance. The rest of the hook link should then be stiff. Alternatively the whole link can be made from a stiff material. We'd recommend Amnesia, Korda IQ, Fox Casper and ESP Stifflink.

How To Tie The 'D' Rig

The 'D' rig is one of the most famous carp rigs ever devised. Used extensively during the late 80' and early 90's, it's use has probably declined in the last few years due to the popularity of the knotless knot. That was until some clever chap devised a way to integrate the sliding 'D' into the knotless knot.

1) Get your materials together and ready, this makes things easier when tying the rig. We'll be using Amnesia for photographic purposes, though it can be used in practice too.

2) Take the hook for your choice and thread it down the hook link. Don't tie the loop in the end of the link, you won't need one. Get ready to tie the knotless knot.



3) Carefully tie on the hook using the knotless knot (see how to tie the knotless knot). Notice where the whippings stop - just under half way down the hooks shank.

4) After you have tied the knot, bend the tail back and thread a sliding rig onto it as shown in the picture. This is where you will tie your boilie.

5) Now comes the clever part. Thread the tag end back through the hook's eye, the carefully burn it using a cigarette lighter. This creates a blob that stops the 'D' unravelling itself.

6) Here is the finished rig complete and a boilie ready to be attached. You can see how the lob works. Clever, eh!

7) Now it's time to look at tying the boilie on. There is no right way to do this, but it is advisable to use a good tying material - like Krystons Samson, for example.

8) One alternative is to create a groove in your chosen hook bait. Then carefully tie your boilie on as shown. Make sure you tie it as securely as you can - you don't want it coming off.

9) Thread the braided hair through the sliding ring as demonstrated, and secure the boilie in place. You can use some rig glue if necessary.

10) Now for the rest of the hook link. Tie a loop in one end of the link, complete with a sliding ring. Tie a swivel onto the other end of the link which should be about 8 inches long.

11) Now connect the hook section of your hook link to the loop. This part of the rig should be 2 or 3 inches long. Obviously there is room to experiment.

12) This rig should be used almost exclusively with pop-ups. To balance the pop-up, simply mould some putty around the knot of the loop as shown.

13) The rig is now finished. Here is the hook bait section, as it should appear just before casting. How can any self-respecting carp resist that!

14) Finally the lead is added. Here it is an inline lead, but you can use this rig with a swivel lead, tubing and a safety bead type set-up. It is up to you.

This feature is taken from the Jan 2000 issue of Total Carp Magazine. For more information on the magazine and current subscription offers please click on the banner below

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